Saturday, October 20, 2012

Have Superchefs Gotten Too Clubby

michael kors flats
(MORE: Have Superchefs Gotten Too Clubby?)
The alternative— actually cooking like mom did — isn’t
very attractive, even if people like myself do like it more.
But although Carbone (who, like most of the chefs here, I
know well) didn’t really articulate it, I know from eating
his and Torrisi’s cooking that they are trying to make
regular food better by doing things to it that the diner
never sees but only appreciates. I wrote about their turkey
sandwich a couple of years ago. It looks and tastes like
turkey, only better. (The secret has to do with injection,
brining, and a low-temp CVAP oven.) The same is true of Ana
Sortun’s falafel (frosted with dark tahini), Michael White’
s pork ragu (featuring hot pork fat blended back into the
finished tomato sauce), or John Besh’s gumbo (embellished
with tapioca pearls), in Cambridge, New York, and New
Orleans. All these dishes are familiar, just improved by
ingenuity and elaboration. In the long run, I suspect that
culinary futurism and Mama’s Sunday sauce will both fall by
the wayside, and chefs will grind forward, tweaking the
familiar to be just a little bit better. It’s not dramatic,
but at the very least, it’s honest work. And that would make
any mother proud.
  Ozersky, author of The Hamburger: A History, is a James
Beard Award–winning food writer. His most recent book,
Colonel Sanders and the American Dream, was published in May
2012. The views expressed are solely his own.

Last Thursday, the online world mourned the death of David
Rose, a deaf and quadriplegic blogger with cerebral palsy who
entertained the masses with his humorous posts. The 24-year-
old Anaheim, Calif. man had a huge following on his blog,
Facebook and Twitter.  He was in the hospital fighting
pneumonia when he was “whisked away by angels” on Oct. 11,
according to a tweet posted by his sister Nichole to his
account. Nichole Rose included a link to a farewell letter
from her brother, theCHIVE reported.
“Always do what is right. Always! But forgive yourself if
you forget sometimes,” an excerpt from the letter reads. The
touching note even moved Kim Kardashian to tweet the blogger
’s words of wisdom.